Alex has spent a lifetime in the sewing industry and is considered one of the foremost experts of pioneering machines and their inventors. He has written extensively for trade magazines, radio, television, books and publications world wide.

The Cookson Sewing Machine

A brief but interesting history

By

Alex I Askaroff

You have to ask yourself just what was Fredrick Cookson thinking when he patented his amazing machine?

 
The stunning Cookson, one of two in my collection

Let’s look at the situation the year is 1886. It has been decades since the sewing machine pioneers like Howe and Singer had perfected the basic sewing machine. What does Fred do? Throw it all away and start from scratch. 

He spent countless hours building a unique sewing machine that looked like nothing else on this planet. Okay there was the later Doorman from Northampton, that had similar bits and was roughly the same size. However, essentially his machine was completely different from anything that was selling well on the market.

On August the 11^th he filed his first of four patents. How happy he must have been to have it approved.

 
An early diagram of the machine

What was stirring the lad on? Maybe he got wind of the success of the share issue from the latest new fangled gadget called the Moldacot. Whatever the reason he bashed away in his workshop at 72 Lozells Road, Birmingham. Maybe he was inspired by James Starley just up the road who had gone from one success to another and he thought that would suit him as well! We will probably never know. There was no doubt that a small lightweight sewing machine would sell well, James Weir was doing a bomb with his 55 shilling special.

What we are left with is a unique sewing machine so perfect for its period. A period when anything was possible when Britain was building an empire and all bright ideas would make millions. 

Hardly, poor old Fred patented four ideas, registered his business in the spring of 1887 and struggled on raising finances and adding partners as he went.

 
The gears on the Cookson  were cut on watch making machines

His invention was doomed from the start the only person who did not know it was Fred himself. Mind you his other directors, John Gittols and Bob Jessop must have been great optimists as well. Were they really going to revolutionise the sewing machine industry with there new light and portable miracle!

By 1888 the writing was on the wall poor marketing lead to only a few hundred sales and the company slid down that ‘orrible path to liquidation. Because it was voluntary liquidation Fred quickly formed a new company with new directors. It must be said that they were either gullible or desperate; Sam Jenkins, James Fairley and Walt Evans had put their money into a company that had only one place to go, down.

With the debts from the previous company weighing heavy and few new sales production of the hand-built masterpiece was stopped. In total only a few hundred Cookson’s were ever made and very few remain today.

 
Very few of these beauties exist today

When you look at the machine you can almost see how Fred’ mind worked. His walking foot method is brilliant especially the way it lifts and walks just like the real thing.  Square-cut gears cut on old watch making machinery from the English Watch Co were noisy and rough. Even Weir had done away with them but Fred stuck with his designs till the bitter end.

Eventually his business in tatters he sold his patent rights to his neighbours, laid off his men locked, up his premises and went back to his Waterloo Road home in Wolverhampton to lick his wounds. Harpur & Mason tried to carry on with a machine using his patents, even taking out an advert out in the popular Domestic Appliance Magazine. Their new machine cost thirty bob. Go on work it out in new money it won’t hurt. Unfortunately they disappeared shortly after as well in 1890.

His idea was doomed from the start. Still no harm in dreaming as they say. Fred must have been a charismatic character as he seemed to have wheeled and dealed, fooling just about everyone who was in business with him and owing money to most of them.

                                                                     
                                   I only know of a few machines complete with original lids, note the two different original colours

The great news is that we are left with a fantastic machine, unique and rare. Some have even turned up with their original lids and all collectors would love one. A short production run, low numbers and great quality makes Fred’s ‘Cookson’ one of the most collectible of all early sewing machines.

Did you like my potted history of this unusual Victorian machine? Do let me know: alexsussex@aol.com

Fancy a good read: Ena Wilf  & The One-Armed Machinist

A brilliant slice of 1940's life: Spies & Spitfires

Many of Alex's stories are now available to keep click on the picture for more information.

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